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25
Mar

on 25 Marzo 2010. Pubblicato in Numero 160 del 08/04/2010

THE WINERY

A Sicilian viticulturist, from his Furnari estate in the province of Messina, produces a pure Nocera: thirty thousand bottles for which a name is still to be decided

Cambria’s
challenge

I have always dreamt of producing such a wine and I have finally succeeded; it is Nino Cambria speaking, a viticulturist whose family has been producing  a pure Nocera for centuries from their Furnari vineyard. A rather particular vine, not widely grown, except for on this stretch of land overlooking the Aeolian Islands and nestling on the slopes of the Nebrodese mountains, one whose effigy is a greyhound with three roses. A very rare grape which in times gone by was used to produce Mamertino, Julius Caesar’s favourite wine.

The production of a pure Nocera is part of the winery’s philosophy pledged to exploiting the typicality of the area by answering to its highest standards with regards to quality, thanks to a finely tuned balance between modern technology and craftsmanship.

Some years ago, during the explantation of what were by then veteran vines, I realized that amongst the classic Nero d’Avola there were a large number of Nocera plants which until then had been used together with the rest to make our classic Furnari red wine  - Nino Cambria explains - the Nocera with its characteristic purple hue and persistent smoothness, pushed me to study its clone, after a few years and after receiving the certification we started producing it.

Today in contrada Mastronicola the clones of the Nocera are all certified, as only a few years ago they were certified by the Regional Institute of Vines and Wine.  After being planted and cultivated, the grapes are providing their first results, and Cambria still dissatisfied, decided to throw himself into producing a pure Nocera.

But what are the characteristics of this vintage wine?“The colour obtained from using pure grape is ruby red with purple reflections and a wealth of aroma, full bodied, rich in an acidity stabilizing  its alcohol and tannin content. Its persistent delicate aroma gives off a hint of fruit and a light smooth refreshing taste; lending itself to blending, yet expressing its uniqueness and complexity, produced and bottled in its purity conferring colour and structure. It lends itself to ageing explains its proprietor.

Cambria produces around 30,000 bottles of Nocera, for which a name is still to be decided. The wine is the only one to be aged in the barrel and will have its début at the next Vinitaly. Enthusiasts will have to wait until then to taste this ancient wine, which has been brought back to life thanks to this Sicilian winery’s research.

Laura Di Trapani

(translate by Deborah Halliday)

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